Despite this, there is a hardcore group of vinyl enthusiasts who still collect not only new vinyl records, but older ones as well. If you wanted to sell a vinyl collection or get it appraised for insurance purposes, you must first know how old each record is. On very old vinyl, this may not be easy to tell right away. For the collector, there are ways that a vinyl lover can date records to find out their true age and worth.
Check the album, jacket, and album cover for writing or branding from the studio. This could be anywhere on the album and is usually small and inconspicuous. If the album came with a lyric sheet, check that as well. Many lyric sheets print the copyright date of the lyrics along with information about the publishing company for each song.
Instead of a date, you may find a catalog number. You can check online at Discogs. Check the cover of the album for an EAN code, which is a product identification barcode. If there is an EAN on the cover, then the album was produced after This gives you a jumping off point if you are having trouble identifying a date for the album. Check the album and cover for two overlapping circles, if the record company was Columbia or CBS.
If there is a Magic Notes logo and a CBS microphone in those circles, the album was produced between to the late s. If there is a Walking Eye logo instead, it was produced in or later. Check the album and cover for a black label with the word 'Parlophone' written in yellow, if the record company is Parlophone. To have a diminished sound or volume in vocals is more likely to be caused by other things. I have a collection of original Blondie records that I purchased as a teen.
I would buy 2 copies; one to play and one that was never opened. Since there is no proof that they are original shrink wrap, does this mean they are worth no more than an open record, because it has to be opened to see that it was never played? Thanks again for always answering my questions, as compromised as my hi-fi situation has been. Thanks so much for your reply. My plan is to try add coins to the actual weight itself first and dial back the actual weight, seeking to find the exact point where the distortion stops and therefore where the stylus begins to sit in the groove.
Time to start saving money for the new turntable…. My head shell is 14 gm weight designed for the turntable tonearm without cartridge, A headshell with a lesser weight would require me to make changes to my system each time i use a different cartridge; that is why I have more than one of the same weight headshell for other cartridges i use. Adding weight removed the problems and made the sound richer.
Do you know of any safe way I can add weight to my tonearm without doing something damaging to my records?
I consulted a friend with 30 years of hiFi knowledge more than me, and his comments are as follows:. If increased tracking weight removes sibilance then it shows the cause of the problem is the stylus not seating properly in the groove. The usual causes of this problem, assuming the tracking weight was set within the cartridge parameters before the coin was added, are a grossly worn stylus or worn cartridge suspension. Up to you but at some point the trade off is accelerated wear to valuable LPs and further damage to the cartridge, against the cost of replacement to the present cartridge and stylus.
The raising of the tonearm height is to make proper clearance of the stylus from the record surface when in the raised position to compensate for the extra weight that is now between cartridge and the headshell, the cartridge would be lower set in the headshell and closer to the record surface when resting in the up position over the record surface, these adjustments become necessary when adding more weight to a headshell.
A Beginner's Guide to Dating and Identifying Records : vinyl
The need to re balance the tonearm and, adjust to the correct stylus pressure to that of the manufacturers optimum tracking for your cartridge it should track well and properly and your sound should be good. I mean not be getting the right tracking weight and maybe never will.
Obviously I am not dealing with a fine piece of equipment here.
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Thanks again for lending an ear. Your advice has been spot on, regardless of your knowledge of this equipment. The VTA is usually a helical screw action which enables the whole pivot point of the arm to be raised and lowered in order to get the arm parallel with the surface of the record. There will be a another small screw of some type which fixes the position you have settled on as most pleasing. The way I was shown it, start with an extreme position, then a quarter turn at a time checking the effect on sound, until you have found the sweet spot.
As a general principle, something I have learned, get the most you can out of what you have got before looking for to upgrade to a higher piece of kit. Trial and error is free, and usually the most effective route to improvement. The other thing I have learned is that audio improvement is a rocky path. Correcting one problem can often lead to exposing another weakness.
The bad news is that good kit reveals very accurately just how weak some pressings are. Its not all good. But it is necessary. Sounded great at times, others it sounded as if the record were pure but the equipment was holding it back. Thanks for all that input. Congratulations and comiserations on your new-found passion for vinyl. Your wobble sounds like a job for the Vinyl Doctor.
All of the adjustments to turntable arm and cartridge alignment can make a noticable difference to the final sound, though this is mainly in the balance between bass and treble, especially the VTA — vertical tracking alignment adjusted at the base of the arm. There is always a sweet spot somewhere between too much and not enough, which you have to locate by trial and error.
The most important component is a buddy — someone who will do the adjusting while you do the listening, and vice versa. I think of it as driving a car on the road. Happy to be corrected if anyone knows better. Sounds great value, but sooner or later you will need to invest in a better TT. I am sure there are plenty of upgraders who would welcome a few dollars for their old kit. Onward and upward, everything is capable of improvement. My turntable seems to have two parts of the arm that I can adjust — the weight at the end of the tonearm, which is something I was familiar with before this whole issue can to my attention, and the black semi-circle that the arm travels along as it move toward the center of the record.
Weight — I can only move between 1. Thanks for your time and detailed replies! Oh, and, uh, decided to mess with the balance weight this morning before work and I guess my grounding wire was a little loose.
Not sure how long it was loose, but it sure made that Bud Powell record sound better! Recently I needed my stylus replaced on my Technics, and until I did that, I was thinking I would replace my turntable around Xmas time, because I was getting suspicious about the sound quality I was getting.
Vinyl Records Value – What Are Your Records Worth?
But with the new stylus I went back to feeling like the Technics does okay and that maybe if I switched over to using a stereo receiver with a built in pre-amp, maybe some issues would clear up. It has mysterious origins, being from the dump and all…and while it seems to operate well, when I first got it, it was missing a stylus but had an Audio Technica cartridge. I brought it into a shop, had a stylus put on the cartridge, and the result was poor.
Miles Davis sounded like he was in the room. I am a musician myself, and a music teacher, and there was something insanely gratifying by how pure everything sounded, even on my system. I am embarrassed to admit, though I guess I already have, that I kind of settled for my first few Blue Notes. They are definitely in a VG type area. Nothing whatsoever gets pushed. But the still sound different than a Blue Note…beat up or not….
How do you know what a record is worth?
They are very bright. We know RVG like to sail close to the wind on volume meters, where other engineers left lots of headroom to avoid overload. Also instruments like the trumpet are inately more variable in volume, according to how they are being played at any moment. I know from experience the turntable makes a bigger difference to the sound of your records than anything else.
How the Record Industry Is Trying to Make Vinyl More Environmentally Friendly
I have a friend with a Roksan rig, and the same record presents completely differently on his system than on mine. I understand Technics has a cult following, but do you experience the same issue with distortion on playing the same record on a different turntable? On my upgraded Avid, the force of a heavy-duty power supply and motor, combined with greater frame rigidity and stability, ensures the stylus is less often distracted from its task of tracking the music in the groove.
A lot of issues seem to have have faded into the background. Maybe we tend to blame the record when it is the equipment that has the issue. I have had two records like this that I simply had to return to the seller and could not accept for any amount of money. However, I have other records that only do this once or twice per side.
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Notify me of new comments via email. Notify me of new posts via email. Personal tolerance… Some people find groove-wear unbearable, others find it barely noticeable. How to examine vinyl You must!
The first four or five revolutions may be worse than the rest of the record, and will benefit most from use of a proper record cleaning machine. These fine s cuffs are very common, and are caused by records not being returned to their protective sleeves after play, rubbing against other materials. Expect a tracery of fine marks left by the listener mounting the record on the spindle. This indicates how frequently the record has been played. More marks indicates a well-loved record with greater risk of damage from frequent playing.
http://cloudmedicaltranscription.com/components/scioto/9657.php Any needle scratches which can be seen and felt, which are probably the main reason for rejecting a record. Warped disc due to improper flat rather than vertical storage, often in proximity to a source of heat Polythene transfer. Some collectors are more averse to groove wear than scratches I mperfectly centered spindle hole , causing Wow and flutter.